After 2 nights in Portsmouth, we drove an hour north to the larger version of Portsmouth: Portland, Maine. Even though New Hampshire is chockfull of craft breweries, Nick had mapped out our agenda for Portland breweries and beer gardens with high expectations.
Once we checked into our hotel and dropped off our bags, we wasted no time, walking down to the harbor-side brewery/brewpub, Liquid Riot. Seating ourselves at the bar, we each selected 4 beers for our flight, discovering a really great imperial stout (Oats M’Goats), triple IPA (NSFW), and standard IPA (Ka$h Money IPA), taking our time unwinding from the drive and planning which beers we’d want to bring home.
The next day we braved the cold and decided to “earn” our beer by renting bikes and biking to the breweries. Suited up with empty growlers in our backpacks (which we later were told couldn’t be used due to Maine’s law against filling “outside” growlers), we started out on an uphill journey to Allagash Brewing Company. Twenty-five minutes later, wind-chapped, and quads burning, we made it!
We sidled up to the bar and exchanged our token for 4 samples of beer: Allagash White, Fluxus, Curieux, and Interlude. Still breaking into saisons, the Fluxus was smooth and well-rounded with notes of clove on the finish. I also really enjoyed the Interlude, a barrel-aged sour, which was mellow and just tart enough to win me over. We enjoyed everything, but be warned: Allagash is legally unable to sell beer for consumption on their property – no glasses, growler fills, etc. Luckily for us, they did sell the Interlude in a bottle, which we snagged on our way out and onto the next spot.
Fortunately for us, Foundation Brewing Company is located literally across the street from Allagash, making our journey in the cold a short one. We shared a flight featuring their American IPA, hoppy brown ale, regular brown ale, and a Maine IPA (as well as some delicious local potato chips). We tried checking out DL Geary Brewing, but they were closed, so we went to Austin Street Brewing – a small place with a limited selection, but worth a visit. And then it was back to Portland and a quick stop at The Thirsty Pig for a delicious and much-needed hot dog and beer.
Having been so invigorated by the sensation of our legs pumping away and wind whipping in our faces, Nick and I rented bikes again the following day to explore more of Portland by foot (and wheel). We spent the earlier part of our day traveling through South Portland and Cape Elizabeth to see the quintessential New England lighthouses, including the most photographed lighthouse in the world: Portland Head Light (also the spot I bought my obligatory overpriced lobster roll – “Picnic Style” and worth the money). Once we finished up with the tourist sightseeing, it was back to brewery-hopping…
Back in central Portland, we rode over to Shipyard, which was probably the most commercial brewery that we visited, but that did not diminish their credibility for really good beer. Shipyard actually acquired Sea Dog, expanding their reach and versatility. We really enjoyed our flight – especially the Pumpkinhead – but didn’t overindulge since our journey was not yet over…
Up another hill to the outskirts of Portland, Nick and I went to Oxbow Brewing Company, a small & quiet operation with a promise of good beer. The decor was reminiscent of a Brooklyn establishment given the warehouse space, remixed Chaka Kahn playlist, and minimalistic/upcycled adornments. Nick and I picked 4 beers to sample, sensing a them of their signature style: Farmhouse Ales. We started with the Bowie, a smoked farmhouse ale, that was easy drinking but flavorful due to the light smokiness (we took a bottle of that home). Our “heavier” beers were the Cuvee Des Jacobins, a Flemish red with a smooth and sweeter taste, and the Oud Brunello, which was a barrel aged sour and my favorite. The Oud Brunello, which was brewed in conjunction with the Italian brewer Ducato, had bold notes of sour cherry and mocha/coffee, with the tartness mellowed out by the barrel aging.
Our final brewery of the day was Rising Tide, a nice downhill ride from Oxbow. By this time, the sun was starting to fade, highlighting the bitter New England chill in the late autumn. We grabbed a flight to share and brought it out front, where they gated off an area of the parking lot for cornhole and other games.
Unfortunately, my corn hole skills were severely impaired, making me a little cranky and agitated. Fortunately, the beer was really good, which cheered me up some. We tried the Autohelm hoppy amber, Wet pale ale, Cutter imperial IPA, and Waypoint coffee porter. The hoppy amber was my winner given the blend of two flavors I really enjoy in beer; overall very drinkable. A lot of the local beers boasted “wet hops,” which offer a slightly different and smoother flavor. Rising Tide had a fun atmosphere and some really good beer. Had it not started getting darker (and colder) with a 30 minute bike ride back to the hotel, I would have definitely tried a few more of their offerings.
After 4 days of walking and biking, drinking all varieties of beer, and eating gourmet chef’s special dishes every night, Nick and I were exhausted by the time Tuesday rolled around. However, with only a few more hours left of vacation, Nick and I pushed through, getting some fresh air as we walked up to the Eastern Promenade, a historic park that overlooks the ocean and cruise boat docks. Wind whipping in our faces, we sauntered down to the old retired train tracks, and stood watching the waves rock the moored sailboats, satisfied with all that we accomplished and explored in Portsmouth & Portland.
But the beer tour of New England didn’t stop there…On our drive back to CT, we felt that we couldn’t not stop at Smuttynose Brewing in Hampton, NH as we were passing through. Besides, it would give us a chance to stretch out our legs before another leg of the journey.
We entered through the gift shop, immediately getting hit with the aroma of yeast, and made our way to the tasting room. Having had some of the Smuttynose beers on our first night’s stay in Portsmouth, Nick and I got adventurous and tried the rarer and seasonal brews. As part of their experimental brews under the “Smuttlabs” line, we tried two beers brewed with Brett hops, which was another trend we noticed during our trip. We went with the Peach Short Weisse, and an early release of their Rocky Road dessert stout, which did in fact give Rocky Road ice cream a run for its money. Smooth, creamy and just enough chocolatey sweetness to make an impact. A 4-pack of Really Old Brown Dog Ale and a bottle of Smuttynose’s winter spice beer, Smistletoe, made it back to CT with us, alongside the case of other assorted beers from our travels…
Reflecting on the trip, it’s the first time in a long time that I did everything I wanted to do; ate everywhere I wanted to eat; and had a blast with my partner in crime. Given all that there is to offer up there, I have a feeling this won’t be our last trip either…
SubArbia 
Amazing. Me and my girlfriend were just in Portland and had a blast. Shipyard was great and the city is beautiful! 🍻🍻
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